OrangeVirus Tuning 2GR-FSE IS350 RC350 Calibration Info

OrangeVirus Tuning 2GR-FSE IS350 RC350 Calibration Info

OrangeVirus Tunings Toyota / Lexus 2GR-FSE Tuning and Calibration Information
The 2GR-FSE is a very well designed engine, but is it truly living up to its potential?
We think not.
This blog is going to cover some information regarding the stock calibration (tune) for the 2GR-FSE engine (in various chassis, IS350, RC350, etc) we are writing this blog post to share our opinion and information from the knowledge we have from several years of stock ECM development, disassembly, flash-tuning, and calibrating.

We have been working on our own reflash for this platform, and we are excited to show you the dyno results, driving results, and utter difference it makes. It will be available soon.
We will be covering many topics in this blog post from fueling to camshaft tuning, ignition to throttle, and why the stock tune is a serious let down if you expect the "sport" in the name to have any useful meaning.
We would like to let it be known, there really isn't "anything to write home about" if you're thinking a F sport version of whichever car comes with anything better than is lesser version of itself. But we will get more into why our opinion of this stock tune is total "non-sense."
Lets get one thing straightened away..the IS350 and RC350 Desperately need a refined calibration, the stock one has vestigial reminants of..unknowns, random maps, unused junk, and bulk amounts of...crap redundancies.
From Best to Worst
CamShaft Timing.

The fact that we are starting with Camshaft VVT advance as the top of the list, is a serious cause of concern. Rarely is a stock VVT table "finely tuned" (this one is not, but everything else is just laughable in comparison)

The Stock Variable Valve advance maps are in lame terms "good enough." The stock cam angle targets are pretty much what you see when a tune is rushed, or over-simplified. By that we mean a lot of interpolation, no refinement. The camshafts follow the normal pecking order of advance in the low end, retard up high. But does that ALWAYS work? What we have seen over the years...Nope!
Cam timing has a general "guideline" of Advance down low, retard up high. However, when it comes to stock camshaft lobe lift and duration, which is rarely ever considered a "performance cam" in any market, this ideology does not always work. We have seen time and time again where this method of tuning gives lack-luster results. But why?
The reason depends on the cams themselves, the base angle (0), the maximum advance, and how the engine flows, all interconnecting parts form the intake manifold to exhaust valves. Properly timing VVT requires a lot of time on a dyno, a finesse for watching power and flow, and maintaining safety margins. Or..you can do like Toyota did. Throw the cam up as high as you can, then just watch it fall.
Here is a representation of the stock intake and exhaust valve advance. (numbers have been altered from actual advance values). Remember, this is the "best" on our list.
Throttle Mapping and Driver input.
Want to full throttle? Too bad!
Floor it and don't feel the reaction you expect? There might just be a reason.
Now to give credit to whomever created these calibrations, this is a very common occurence with new drive by wire systems and throttle modulation. As safety standards get stricter year by year, manufacturers must do whatever possible to ensure their car is as safe as possible on the road. What better way to do that then ensure the driver can't get as much power as the engine is rated for. (in complete fairness you can, but only under certain conditions!)
Our test mule was a 2016 Lexus RC350 F Sport 8AT with Eco mode, Sport Mode, and Sport +. Due to Toyotas convoluted code, data conversion formulas, and ancient hardware, we have yet to fully dissect every interaction and change from each mode. What we do know, there is distinct differences in throttle, and if you think Sport + is the "be all," think again.
We aren't going to cover Eco mode because Eco mode has a very specific purpose, and power isn't it. So throttle limitation is an obvious choice to help with MPG. But how about Sport mode?
Below are representations of stock Throttle maps based on what you do with the accelerator pedal. If you recall feeling that little "extra click" at the bottom of the pedal, thats there to give you that "fullish throttle."
Below are Throttle maps that we have determined are based on various gears. Can you guess which ones are the lower gears? Do you see the sudden spikes on the bottom to? Go drive your car in sport mode, hold a stead throttle almost at "full" and feel that sudden urge of extra power after lets say...4500 RPM? Yep, throttle limitation.
A simple adjustment to all of these tables (which exist for every gear, and every mode) can really transform the way the car feels, unlocking "more power," buy giving you the power you paid for!
Fueling Tables (this is where things really go downhill)
We will give you a brief overview of closed loop operation, because it's pretty consistent with any other major manufacturer.
Closed loop is pretty basic. Target 14.7 like every other car, and also target a richer AFR when you go full throttle prior to open loop. The target AFR is 12.6x, which in reality is quite ideal for a stock tune. That's as far as Ideal goes.
When things go into Open Loop, things change. First, there is a requested Load (like any calibration) to change to Open Loop, but also a necessary desired RPM (again, like most stock major manufacture calibrations).
But then things get confusing. Toyota has this map (below, a representation of the actual stock map with data values changed to be easier to understand). Lets say these values are "injector opening time." When things go into open loop, there is a preset map that just throws fuel into the engine, 02 feedback completely stops, Not the normal, expected stop as in the 02 sensors still read but the ECU disregards feedback, but the stop as if the 02 sensors just died out completely. Total loss of all fuel sampling whatsoever. So what AFR do you get at full throttle in open loop? Who knows. (It can be determined with an aftermarket gauge of course, but seriously this is 2016 where a majority of vehicles run full time closed loop systems with full time fuel sampling.. Come on Toyota).
But wait, theres more. There is another map that comes into play when the ECU is at full load. An additional enrichment map for full Load. (the map shown is a "partial load" map). However, one small problem. Full load enrichment map is blank. Woops!
Ignition Advance
literally bottom of the barrel, for several reasons.
The reason for our bottom of the barrel comment is not for the ignition targets, they are actually quite good targets. The reason is the excessive redundancies, maps that are not even used, maps that contradict each other, and maps may make the car potentially unsafe to drive. When they said premium required, they weren't kidding.
Pro Tip Number 1: Never fill up your car with less than premium if you have a IS350 or RC350. Period.
Lets first start off by saying these are actual stock timing tables, with an altered conversion formula. (actual ignition targets are slightly higher, we don't want to give away all our secrets).
We are going to go counter clockwise starting from "Ignition Timing Main." Also not shown here, we mention redundancies because there are SEVERAL of these same maps in the ECU (like more than 12, all identical)
Ignition timing "main" isn't all that bad of an ignition map. it is surprisingly aggressive for a stock ignition table. There is a dip as you can see, in the higher load section of the map (if you understand how to read a basic ignition map). But Toyota's got a "fix" for that.
Ignition Timing "safe" might as well be renamed "ignition timing useless."
Most engine calibrators know that when damage happens and ignition is related, it is at high load, not low load. The High Load values in that map are a good safety net if someone was to put...87 in the tank. But there is a problem, and that's the "Ignition timing actually used" map. We reference this map because it really only comes to play at high load, and is really only important at high load.
What do we know about ignition and high load? This is where damage can occur.
What do we know about too much ignition and too low octane? Detonation.
Generally, really low load you can get away with excessive ignition, high load is not as forgiving. This will all make sense in a moment.
The ECU uses "Main" as it's main map, using this target generally, all the time. The ECU then References "Actually used" the ensure that ignition NEVER goes below the values in "actually used." This is a coded RULE, that someone wrote into the assembly language of this calibration.
Check out Ignition timing "actually used."... Now check out Ignition timing main. (note Ignition timing main is a map nearly identical to older IS vehicles, rather than creating a clean calibration, toyota literally just stacked crap on top of an old one...for a 2016 car).
Check out ignition timing map. See that dip, where ignition falls on the high load section of the map (far right) then picks back up? Now check out Ignition timing "actually used".. That spot is raised! Rather than cleaning the actual map, it seems someone raised the MINIMUM amount of ignition allowable up.
MINIMUM AMOUNT OF IGNITION ALLOWED. As in the ECU is not programmed to allow ignition below these values (assuming all of our disassembly is correct. Honestly it's impossible to know with how spiderwebbed this ECU is, but this is what the code shows us).
So.. what's the problem. This effectively renders the "safe" map useless. The safe map falls below the actually used map, the ECU can't use it.
When it comes to ignition and safety, high load is critical. So lets say you fill your tank up with 85 octane. You floor it. The stock ignition values are way too aggressive for that, you start getting detonation. The ECU starts pulling ignition out to combat the knock..except... (drumroll please) it cannot pull out more ignition than "actually used." Yikes! That map is way too much ignition for anything less than premium on this engine.
And finally, to go full circle, the vestigial ignition map. We have no idea what its for. It's not even in the same byte order as any other ignition map, it's a lone wanderer somewhere in the code with what seems like no purpose, and follows a completely different hexadecimal structure. All we can do is guess that it has something to do with one of the other calibrations that got layered into making this frankenstein.
That's not all folks, that's just the tip of the calibration iceberg. It goes much deeper, that's just all we can stomach for now.

thanks.

1 comment

  • Runamok81

    So, whats next? How could you improve this ECU mapping?

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